Beirut, Lebanon

My memories of my time in Beirut, Lebanon are all positive and strong with an undertow of emotions calling me to return. The year was 1968 and I was on my way to chair a conference on Lutheran Education around the world. The Conference was to be held in Hong Kong and on my way there I visited educational institutions in Europe and Asia, with Beirut being a highlight.

One of the things that made it so memorable was my guide. He was an Arab who was native, had converted to Christianity and was very insightful into the history and the special dynamic of that centuries-old domain called Lebanon.

He gave me a wonderful tour of the city of Beirut: the harbor overlooking the tranquil Mediterranean is breath taking. The drive through the countryside down to the historic Tyre and Sidon plunges one into Biblical history. The well preserved as well as the abandoned fortresses of the Crusades pointed to a darker time of humanity’s inability to live peacefully among people of different faiths. Unfortunately we did not have enough time to visit the majestic Cedars of Lebanon.

My host explained some of the unique features of life in Lebanon. Then, as now, representation in the governments is on a rationed basis. Seats and offices are divided up in the same proportion as the faiths represented-, presently Christianity, Islam and Judaism. When I was there Christianity actually was entitled to a small majority of positions. Now Islam is dominant, just about equally divided between Sunni and Shiites.

After returning from Tyre and Sidon we spent several hours on the beautiful campus of The American University. Originally established by Christian missionaries it continues to be a seat of higher learning for people of all faiths. The tree-lined campus is home to many professors from America and some of them graciously hosted me for stimulating conversations.

The highlight of the visit came when it was time to eat. We sat in a gorgeous restaurant at the very edge of the sea. We were eating the meal long ordained as the official repast of the country: mezze. There must be a minimum of 30 dishes. They just kept arriving. There were items that looked like tapas from Spain and anti-pasta from Italy, multicolored dishes of vegetables, fruit, meat, tealeaves, sea creatures and plants. Delicious, every one of them and all washed down by arak, the anise flavored liquor of the region.

Tragically, the history of Beirut and Lebanon has seen painful and dark days since I was last there. War with Israel. The worst disaster for US Marines since WW II as 285 were killed in an attack by a suicide bomber (which resulted in President Reagan ordering all US troops out of Lebanon in 1983). Recently the militant Islamic group Hezbollah has established a strong presence. And now Lebanon is caught up in the Syrian revolution and coping with sectarian violence and an avalanche of refugees.

My heart goes out to the people of Beirut. Even as I reflect upon their current struggles I have wonderful memories of a warm people who love their country and are models of hospitality that I would do well to emulate.